Paris, Deux Jours

We touched down in Paris on a Saturday morning after our 7-hour overnight flight from Toronto. As soon as we could grab our carry-ons, we hopped off the plane and headed straight down to buy train tickets into Paris. Despite running on a mere 3 hours of sleep (Andy had none), I was so giddy that it was hard to walk at a normal pace and not look like an overexcited tourist. Apparently I didn't fully succeed since we soon encountered our first ripoff scheme at the airport ticket kiosks. A man approached and said he had some extra train tickets he wouldn't be able to use and offered to sell them to us. We'd been warned to be aware of scams and something felt fishy about it, so we said no. Instead, we used our best "bonjours" on the real ticket counter lady, and were soon on our way!

It took about an hour to ride into the city. The suburbs are quite gritty and different than the idyllic Paris scenes we're accustomed to. But as soon as we got off the RER at the St. Michel-Notre Dame stop, we ascended the Metro stairs to our first real Paris scene, which was just as magical as I'd imagined. Place St. Michel (picture above) in the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank, and the lovely Parisian architecture.

We successfully navigated our way across across Seine, through the square near Notre Dame, and back across another bridge onto the Ile St. Louis, to the flat where Andy's mom and siblings were staying. Talk about a surreal experience as we knocked on the huge ancient wooden door and saw Andy's mom poke her head out the window four floors up. Someone let us in and we hauled our bags four flights up the narrow winding wooden staircase. It was about noon by then, so we grabbed a bite to eat in the kitchen (my first taste of divine French yogurt in little ceramic pots) and soon afterwards headed out to explore. Betsy, Pete, and Annette had already been in Paris for almost a week so they'd seen many of the main touristy things already. We followed their lead since we knew we'd see the other stuff after they left on Tuesday. 

Our first stop: A charming fromagerie/charcuterie (cheese and meat shop) right outside the flat to get some food for a picnic and dinner the next day. The smell was intoxicating and I had a great time examining all the items. The complicating factors: We wanted to try something new, but didn't know what to order, and the shopkeeper spoke almost no English. So Betsy and I used our pidgin French to ask him what would go well with an omelet ("fromage bon avec oeufs?" Thanks to E for the gift of a French-English phrasebook, which saved the day. He gave us some divine Comté cheese, a few sausages, and we were on our way.

We crossed back across the square and asked another English-speaking tourist to take our picture in front of the cathedral. (L to R: Pete, Andy, me, Betsy, Annette). For those of you who don't know, Betsy is Andy's twin sister. It's funny that when people hear he has a twin, even though they know it's a girl, many still often ask, "Do you look alike?" You decide.

Next stop: San Chapelle with its glorious stained glass windows. Stories from the Bible are portrayed in the glass, but I had a hard time identifying many of them. Anyone else have the same experience? It was also cloudy that day so apparently the effect wasn't as brilliant. As you can see, it was still breathtaking. I guess that means we'll just have to go back another time to see the chapel in a better light. Darn. Any volunteers for travel buddies?

 Pete and his best heartwarming smile. 

We continued on out Pont Neuf to the Right Bank of the Seine, avoided another gypsy scam at the stairs of the Pont des Artes bridge, walked through the courtyard to the Louvre, and over to the Rue de Rivoli. I'd hoped to warm up with a cup of the famed French hot chocolate from Angelina's, but the line was crazy long so instead we went back into the Tuileries Gardens and enjoyed our lunch of sandwiches, cheese, and sausages as we sat on the green chairs that seem to be found in all the large Parisian gardens. We continued our amble to the end of the Tuileries where we found this man selling roasted chestnuts, which of course, we had to try. My traveling motto is, "When in Rome..." The snack hit the spot on a chilly day.

Risked life and limb to cross the chaotic traffic circle near the Place de la Concorde, with its pilfered Egyptian obelisk. It's at the east end of what is now the Champs Elysees and was the location of the guillotine during the French Revolution.

No sooner had we crossed the street than a gorgeous old luxury car pulled up and an impossibly chic wedding couple emerged with their own photographer and camera crew in tow. We watched as they did a shoot near the fountains at the Place de la Concorde. You know, just a typical day in Paris.

 Said wedding car

It was getting cold and the effects of jet lag started to come on, so we hopped on the Metro and rode back down to the stop near the Hotel deVille, which is Paris's city hall. I love that building and it was fun to pass it every day as we left for our adventures. One of my favorite memories is coming up from the Metro that day to the sounds of a Klezmer band and a street fair in full swing. To me, that's the beauty and excitement of travel: Encountering those unexpected experiences that are unique to the place where you're at. Being with the locals instead of just schlepping around to all the touristy haunts. Not that we didn't go to all those as well...

Andy was pooped and needed a nap, but I wanted to keep exploring and try stay up to get my body clock on Paris time. Betsy was looking for a book as a gift, so we headed over to the famous Shakespeare and Company bookstore on the Left Bank. I love browsing bookstores no matter where I am, but this one was particularly fun. A historic shop where every nook and cranny is filled with every type of literature imaginable. A bibliophile's dream.

Last stop, walking along the quays (pathways) next to the Seine. This video captures a quintessential Parisian scene: The omnipresent bateaux mouches (sightseeing boats), street performers, and people ambling along the river. It makes me smile every time I watch it.

Hooked

Thanks to Downton Abbey, I have been a waste of human debris for the past two days. It all started so innocently, watching the first episode in bed with Andy on Monday night. By Tuesday night I'd seen all four episodes of season one and the first episode of season two. Yes friends, that's 8 hours of TV in a day. It helped that Lucy was feeling under the weather, so I didn't feel as bad just curling up in bed with her next to me while I watched with the computer propped up on my lap. She particularly enjoyed the hunt scene. For those of you who are considering calling CPS, no, she didn't see the part with Mr. Pamuk. Eek! What was Mary thinking??? (For those of you who haven't seen it, it's a seduction scene. Definitely not R-rated, just not quite appropriate for a 2-year-old's eyes).

But it doesn't stop there. That night at 11:44, after I'd exhausted the episodes available on pbs.org, I sent this crackhead email to my sister Kaylee, who has seen all of season two via pirated versions on random European TV websites. And I quote: "What's the website to see season 2 episodes 2 and on?????? what is matthew's fiancee's secret???"

Our email chain proceeded as follows:

Kaylee-  "Hahaha your desperate email cracks me up! You and Kira both started the show yesterday and have been watching nonstop. Makes me proud! The website is tv-links.eu. Then search for downtown abbey and then a list of links will come up. Some are better than others cause of quality or time restraints. I recommend novamov, videozoer (or something like that I think), or putlocker. Those work the best. Not that I would know ;)"

Me - "I am pathetic." (Followed by a link to the PBS website where you can rate how much you like each of the characters. http://www.pbs.org/wgbh/masterpiece/downtonabbey/season2_characters_vote.html


Kaylee - (Attached the picture posted above with this message) "Oh hello, Mathew. Looking dashing in the military garb. I'll admit it. I'm a sucker for him in this outfit. One of the best scenes happens when he's in it..."

So there you have it. I contemplated the security of the links to season 2, but threw caution to the wind and am now up to episode five. Thanks to one sketchy Russian website, my computer is most likely now riddled with viruses and spyware. I am currently exercising all the restraint I have not to go onto any other European websites to watch finish up season two. We'll see how long that lasts. I have a Sunday School lesson to prepare, but am a weak soul. Maybe this week we'll just watch a video. :) I did clean for two hours this morning to be at least somewhat productive.

ATTENTION: If you have any propensity towards the Edwardian era, refined women in elegant clothing, Englishmen in dinner jackets, any of the Jane Austen stories, soap operas, or BBC costume dramas in general, you are at risk of getting sucked into the world of Downton Abbey. You've been warned.

To the Manor Born

I'm on the verge of diving into the first episode of Season One of the highly acclaimed Downton Abbey. Literally, I'll push play as soon as this post is published. Multiple sources report that it's not only highly entertaining, but also highly addicting. I keep reading that the character's outfits are amazing as well. What can I say? I'm a sucker for a good costume drama. This could be the commencement of many winter nights spent glued to the computer screen. Thanks to E for reminding me that you can watch it for free on pbs. org. In true highbrow fashion, a toast to not having to spring for a Netflix subscription!

Do you Downton? What's your take on it?

You'll Shoot Your Eye Out!

What to do when the tragic lack of snow in Utah forces you to forego the traditional Christmas Eve sledding? Engage in a little modern warfare.

Our gift to Andy's family members: 6-dart repeat firing Nerf guns. After heading over to a local elementary schoolyard with the intent of playing kickball, we handed out the wrapped packages and had everyone tear them open in unison. Within a minute, guns started blazing.

 

  The baby-faced assassin packing some heat.
Unlike Ralphie's mom, we apparently have no qualms giving pseudo-firearms to our children. Charlton Heston would be proud. Others are probably horrified by this picture. You know who you are. :)

Kickball quickly evolved into dodge/dart tag with modified rules. Each team had to kick the ball and run the bases as usual, but people were out when hit by a dart. It was great because Andy's aunt, uncle, and cousin were there, along with his twin's "good friend," so we had enough to really play. 

Freezing temperatures forced us to call it quits after 45 minutes. So the battle moved inside instead.

Andy's mom made scone dough with bullets whizzing around her.

Then someone had the idea to break out the ski goggles to prevent any unfortunate eye injuries that could ruin Christmas festivities. Opthamologists across the Wasatch Front breathed a sigh of relief. That's when it got really good.

Auntie Char's got her game face on. Oh, and the paper antlers Andy's uncle made for each of us for a game we played later.

Uncle Pete's locked and loaded.

Later that night we found him sitting in the recliner wearing his ski googles and reading a book while Ben stood across the room and used him as target practice.

Does anyone else see that sinister glint in her eye? Don't mess with Bets. A true competitor, if I ever met one.

Ben busted out his best moves for the occasion.

Protecting the not-so-innocent.

Let the games begin!

Highlight: The sneak attack from Betsy's friend, Steve "the nice biologist." Also a very formidable opponent and good sport about the evening's shenanigans.

A tiny reindeer eating dinner during a break in the action.

Scones, sausages, and fruit for dinner on Christmas Eve. A Haws family tradition. Great company and good conversation.

Now back to more games. The kids broke a wily dragon pinata after dinner and enjoyed the spoils.

I think Pete's celebrity double would be Jude Law. Anyone else with me on that?

Thanks to our first-ever yoga class, catching up with friends, lots of reading time, societally-sanctioned gluttony, and seeing the kids so excited, it was a great trip. More to come!

Girly Girl

Lucy would not leave the house yesterday without the following:

 1. Her Lightning McQueen lunchbox (filled with Spiderman fruit snacks and Kung Fu Panda Fruit Roll Ups to share with her friends).

2. Her official Cars book, highlighting each character, its make and model. From both movies.

Perhaps it's the overabundance of men in her life. In addition to being Ben's shadow, every Friday she gets together with these three handsome guys for a little playgroup. Needless to say, she fits in well with all the talk of trucks and trains.

One of the boys was wearing a hat, so the others wanted to put theirs on as well. We couldn't quite find ones that pleased Stephen. For some crazy reason he didn't want to wear Lucy's pink pom pom beanie. I died when I saw the Angry Birds hat. Not only is it awesome, but also befits its wearer, who at the tender age of two, is apparently quite the Angry Birds expert.

I squatted down to take a picture and they all followed suit. They look like a bunch of young toughs getting ready to rumble. Or like a crew itching to bust out their breakdancing moves. Which they soon did...

We had a dance party for the last 20 minutes of our playgroup. Not only did they rock out to the Cars theme song, but their moves to Lady Gaga brought down the house.

J'adore Paris

I can't believe we've been back from Paris for almost two months now. It almost feels like it was all a dream. I loved every second of our trip and have been negligent in posting pictures because Blogger takes 50 million years to upload photos. But here are the shots you've been clamoring for (okay, not really). But it will help me remember since the City of Lights is now the happy place in my head. Andy teases about the fact that I took almost 500 pictures during our ten days. But I prefer to collect memories, not souvenirs. So the posts will be broken up into small bits, so as to not overwhelm me from the enormity of the task or you from trip overkill.

To begin with, we owe major thanks to both sets of parents. This trip wouldn't have been possible without Andy's parents turning 60 and his mom deciding to celebrate the momentous occasion by renting a flat on the I'le St. Louis for the month of October. Thanks to her gracious hospitality, we crashed with her for most of our stay. The location made the trip particularly magical since we were on one of the two islands in the middle of the Seine, within spitting distance of Notre Dame and easy walking distance to everything else. We walked our little feet off and got to see the city so much more since we didn't have to spend much of our time on the Metro.

I love this picture of Annette, as we're crossing one of the bridges from the I'le St. Louis to the Left Bank. It captures not only her European flair (love the scarf), but her exuberance for the adventure.

The trip also wouldn't have been possible without the magnanimous help of my mom, Grandma Lori, who watched Ben and Lucy while we were gone. Or Grandpa Jeff, who kindly parted with her for almost two weeks without complaint. The kids had a wonderful time and we were able to enjoy ourselves all the more since we knew they were in such good hands. That's code for: Andy was surprised that we didn't miss them all that much; I wasn't.

On our way to the airport: Ben showing us the prize he got for selling Mumkins at school. I should have skipped buying the overpriced Mumkins and just bought him some Peeps. He would have been just as happy. Lesson learned. He was a champion helper for Grandma while we were gone.

Stoic Lucy wouldn't look at us the whole way there once she figured out we were leaving. Thankfully my mom arrived a day early so Lucy could ease into the transition.

Flying with no kids: can you sense the giddyness? Even though our plane from Columbus to Toronto left late, which left us running through the Toronto airport to catch our connecting flight to Paris, it was heaven to just be able to sit back, relax, watch the shows, sleep a little, and not have to entertain little bodies.

Paris, here we come!

Culture Vulture

We had a big stretch of time open on Sunday afternoon so I thought it would be the perfect time to do some baking. I've been wanting to use our Eiffel Tower cookie cutter and even bought some Betty Crocker sugar cookie mix to stay true to my lazy-woman's version of channeling Martha Stewart.

Things didn't quite turn out how I envisioned. The first sign of trouble came when Andy (a sugar cookie aficionado) tasted the dough and said that there were wierd little chunks in it. Huh? I'd followed the directions to the letter, obediently adding the softened stick of butter and mixing. Sure enough, upon examination, I found rice-sized bits of something, but figured that it was nothing that a bit more vigorous mixing and a good blast of heat from the oven coulldn't fix. But it turned out that the batter wasn't the biggest problem.

This is how they turned out: They cookies looked like either the Eiffel Tower with hip dysplasia or bottom-heavy giraffes. You decide. So much for my visions of decorating them with black frosting and sparkles to emulate the tower shining at night.

Despite their Quasimodo-like apperance, apparently they weren't totally inedible since the cookies all disappeared by the end of the night.

Last weekend we also watched one of my favorite movies of all time. We've seen it five or six times and I'm always hooked by the excellent acting and compelling story. Gotta love the Brits. Dame Helen deserved her Oscar.

Finally, last Friday night Andy and I took Ben out for a date night - his first concert. I'd bought the tickets as a gift for a friend, but she ended up not being able to go, so we thought it would be fun for Ben since he loves music and dancing. We saw Cherish the Ladies, a traditional Irish music band. Little did we know they are an internationally renowned, award-winning group and the concert did not disappoint. Ben clapped along with the music and I loved the Irish step dancers (reminds me of my clogging days). He stayed up four hours past his bedtime and was late for school on Monday due to oversleeping, but it was worth it.