Paris, Deux Jours

We touched down in Paris on a Saturday morning after our 7-hour overnight flight from Toronto. As soon as we could grab our carry-ons, we hopped off the plane and headed straight down to buy train tickets into Paris. Despite running on a mere 3 hours of sleep (Andy had none), I was so giddy that it was hard to walk at a normal pace and not look like an overexcited tourist. Apparently I didn't fully succeed since we soon encountered our first ripoff scheme at the airport ticket kiosks. A man approached and said he had some extra train tickets he wouldn't be able to use and offered to sell them to us. We'd been warned to be aware of scams and something felt fishy about it, so we said no. Instead, we used our best "bonjours" on the real ticket counter lady, and were soon on our way!

It took about an hour to ride into the city. The suburbs are quite gritty and different than the idyllic Paris scenes we're accustomed to. But as soon as we got off the RER at the St. Michel-Notre Dame stop, we ascended the Metro stairs to our first real Paris scene, which was just as magical as I'd imagined. Place St. Michel (picture above) in the Latin Quarter on the Left Bank, and the lovely Parisian architecture.

We successfully navigated our way across across Seine, through the square near Notre Dame, and back across another bridge onto the Ile St. Louis, to the flat where Andy's mom and siblings were staying. Talk about a surreal experience as we knocked on the huge ancient wooden door and saw Andy's mom poke her head out the window four floors up. Someone let us in and we hauled our bags four flights up the narrow winding wooden staircase. It was about noon by then, so we grabbed a bite to eat in the kitchen (my first taste of divine French yogurt in little ceramic pots) and soon afterwards headed out to explore. Betsy, Pete, and Annette had already been in Paris for almost a week so they'd seen many of the main touristy things already. We followed their lead since we knew we'd see the other stuff after they left on Tuesday. 

Our first stop: A charming fromagerie/charcuterie (cheese and meat shop) right outside the flat to get some food for a picnic and dinner the next day. The smell was intoxicating and I had a great time examining all the items. The complicating factors: We wanted to try something new, but didn't know what to order, and the shopkeeper spoke almost no English. So Betsy and I used our pidgin French to ask him what would go well with an omelet ("fromage bon avec oeufs?" Thanks to E for the gift of a French-English phrasebook, which saved the day. He gave us some divine Comté cheese, a few sausages, and we were on our way.

We crossed back across the square and asked another English-speaking tourist to take our picture in front of the cathedral. (L to R: Pete, Andy, me, Betsy, Annette). For those of you who don't know, Betsy is Andy's twin sister. It's funny that when people hear he has a twin, even though they know it's a girl, many still often ask, "Do you look alike?" You decide.

Next stop: San Chapelle with its glorious stained glass windows. Stories from the Bible are portrayed in the glass, but I had a hard time identifying many of them. Anyone else have the same experience? It was also cloudy that day so apparently the effect wasn't as brilliant. As you can see, it was still breathtaking. I guess that means we'll just have to go back another time to see the chapel in a better light. Darn. Any volunteers for travel buddies?

 Pete and his best heartwarming smile. 

We continued on out Pont Neuf to the Right Bank of the Seine, avoided another gypsy scam at the stairs of the Pont des Artes bridge, walked through the courtyard to the Louvre, and over to the Rue de Rivoli. I'd hoped to warm up with a cup of the famed French hot chocolate from Angelina's, but the line was crazy long so instead we went back into the Tuileries Gardens and enjoyed our lunch of sandwiches, cheese, and sausages as we sat on the green chairs that seem to be found in all the large Parisian gardens. We continued our amble to the end of the Tuileries where we found this man selling roasted chestnuts, which of course, we had to try. My traveling motto is, "When in Rome..." The snack hit the spot on a chilly day.

Risked life and limb to cross the chaotic traffic circle near the Place de la Concorde, with its pilfered Egyptian obelisk. It's at the east end of what is now the Champs Elysees and was the location of the guillotine during the French Revolution.

No sooner had we crossed the street than a gorgeous old luxury car pulled up and an impossibly chic wedding couple emerged with their own photographer and camera crew in tow. We watched as they did a shoot near the fountains at the Place de la Concorde. You know, just a typical day in Paris.

 Said wedding car

It was getting cold and the effects of jet lag started to come on, so we hopped on the Metro and rode back down to the stop near the Hotel deVille, which is Paris's city hall. I love that building and it was fun to pass it every day as we left for our adventures. One of my favorite memories is coming up from the Metro that day to the sounds of a Klezmer band and a street fair in full swing. To me, that's the beauty and excitement of travel: Encountering those unexpected experiences that are unique to the place where you're at. Being with the locals instead of just schlepping around to all the touristy haunts. Not that we didn't go to all those as well...

Andy was pooped and needed a nap, but I wanted to keep exploring and try stay up to get my body clock on Paris time. Betsy was looking for a book as a gift, so we headed over to the famous Shakespeare and Company bookstore on the Left Bank. I love browsing bookstores no matter where I am, but this one was particularly fun. A historic shop where every nook and cranny is filled with every type of literature imaginable. A bibliophile's dream.

Last stop, walking along the quays (pathways) next to the Seine. This video captures a quintessential Parisian scene: The omnipresent bateaux mouches (sightseeing boats), street performers, and people ambling along the river. It makes me smile every time I watch it.